If clothes is communication, what does double denim say about its wearer? When Brad Pitt struts into view in Thelma & Louise, decked out in a free denim shirt tucked into blue denims, his apparel speaks of irreverence and a free spirit. When Ryan Gosling clothes in a denim jacket and denims in Drive, he’s taking part in the neighbourhood good man (although his leather-based driving gloves trace at a darker facet). In Brokeback Mountain, Jake Gyllenhaal’s denim shirt and denims sign each his belonging within the macho world of the American West and his sexuality (double denim is a signifier for the queer group). Over time, it’s change into recognised as a glance that represents freedom.
And it’s cropped up in designer collections once more this season. Balenciaga gave it a grungy ’90s spin with an acid-wash denim jacket styled with frayed denims. Dolce & Gabbana patchworked completely different washes into a jacket and denims. At skate-influenced Californian model Amiri, blue-black denims teamed with an acid-wash light-blue jacket made for a pared-back look. London-based LEJ’s first spring-summer assortment styled an indigo selvedge shirt with barely washed five-pockets. And Martine Rose paired pale-blue denims with an outsized jacket that made the hardy cloth look positively cosy.
“Our buyer desires that distinctive, hard-to-find denim that will set them aside,” says Joe Brunner, menswear purchaser at Browns. “We’re seeing the style objects carry out higher than the extra conventional, on a regular basis items.” He notes that in addition to seeing the look throughout the bigger homes, younger designers comparable to Stefan Cooke, Casablanca and Bethany Williams are additionally choosing up the development, “pushing the boundaries of males’s denim with completely different prints, washes and textures”.
How one can method the development as a newcomer? There are two methods, says Brunner. “The primary being go massive or go dwelling.” For maximalists, he recommends “one thing flamboyant” comparable to Casablanca’s denim print jacket and denims. “It seems to be unimaginable and also you’ll positively stand out.” Or, for the conservative dresser, he advises seeking to ’70s Americana, which “emits easy cool, Hollywood vibes”. “I’d go together with one thing from Visvim that nods to classic with darkish washes, rips and distressed patches. Orslow is at all times a nice choice with basic, refined denims.”
US label Guess, which was based in 1981 – simply because the development was reaching its peak – are double-denim stalwarts. “Double-denim styling labored for Guess within the ’80s, ’90s and up till immediately,” says Paul Marciano, the model’s CCO. “Denim is the image of freedom, it’s for everybody of all ages and all instances.” For his summer time marketing campaign, shot on the Sicilian coast, Marciano styled fashions in true-blue denim shirts and paler tight-fitting denims, giving the gathering a youthful ’80s really feel. “Denim is our roots and, for the reason that starting, Guess has at all times labored with double denim because it represents the younger, attractive and adventurous.”
Mannequin, Moustapha Sy at Insurgent Administration. Casting, Mathilde Curel for Julia Lange Casting. Hair, Pawel Solis at Artlist Paris. Make-up, Mayumi Oda at Bryant Artists. Photographer’s assistants, Thomas Charbois and Kevin Theard. Digital operator, Romain Courtois. Stylist’s assistant, Marie Poulmarch. Manufacturing, Rosco Productions