The 14 finalists for the 2021 ANDAM Style Award hail principally from Europe, and have a tendency to concentrate on fashions that blur boundaries and worth inclusivity. Sustainability is virtually a given.
Listed below are the seven contenders for the ANDAM Grand Prize, which comes with 300,000 euros and a yr of teaching from Balenciaga chief government officer Cédric Charbit, the president of this yr’s jury.
Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby established the Berlin-based label GmbH in 2016, rapidly gaining a repute for sustainable practices and an aesthetic that references underground membership tradition, migration, politics, queerness and extra. Their gender-fluid collections are recognized for revolutionary tailoring, streetwear cool and subversive touches, with their fall 2021 assortment boasting sensual off-the-shoulder coats and jackets worn by males.
Final month, Işık and Huseby had been named artistic administrators of Trussardi and are to point out their first assortment for fall 2022.
Işık is a first-generation German of Turkish descent and Huseby, of Norwegian-Pakistani heritage, grew up in Norway. Cultural mixes and a way of otherness have knowledgeable GmbH, and town and cultural scene of Berlin have additionally formed their method. Final yr GmbH was a finalist for the Woolmark Prize.
Charaf Tajer launched Casablanca in 2018 as a males’s put on label after a number of different profitable endeavors: as a companion within the Paris-based artistic collective Ache O Chokolat, as cofounder of the clothes label Pigalle and after launching scorching nightclubs, together with Le Pompon.
Casablanca rapidly grew to become a byword for snazzy silk shirts, funky terry-cloth tracksuits and funky sneakers, the latter performed in collaboration with New Steadiness. Early celeb adoptees of the label included J Balvin, Travis Scott, Gigi Hadid and Hailey Bieber, which compelled Tajer to make his assortment coed.
Tajer plans to develop a full way of life providing, with the ambition of positioning Casablanca among the many apex of French luxurious manufacturers. The designer was born in France, however his dad and mom met working in a tailoring workshop within the Moroccan metropolis that impressed the label’s identify.
Launched in 2014 by design duo Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, who met at Parsons College of Design, Space has made a reputation for itself with a glittery, generally racy tackle ladies’s put on that mixes the excessive gloss of a Nineteen Seventies trend journal with a distinctly Millennial embrace of inclusivity.
“Our model is all about glamour and actually the polarizing concept of what that may very well be,” Panszczyk informed WWD in 2019. Celebrities who’ve embraced its eccentric, DIY-tinged aesthetic are as various as Michelle Obama, Katy Perry and Ariana Grande.
Final January, the New York-based model made its first couture assortment, using virtually 500,000 Swarosvki crystals on designs impressed by historic civilizations.
A 2014 graduate of Central Saint Martins, Grace Wales Bonner started exploring representations of Black male sexuality and id along with her fashions, later taking up private explorations of African id and spirituality and branching out into ladies’s put on.
Working with a small staff, the British designer has gained a slew of trend awards, together with the 2016 LVMH Prize and the 2019 BFC/Vogue Designer Style Fund. Her garments are carried at retailers together with Matchesfashion.com, Dover Avenue Market, Web-a-porter, Ssense, Browns, Boon the Store and Galeries Lafayette.
She has racked up collaborations with Adidas Originals and with Maria Grazia Chiuri on Dior’s cruise 2020 assortment. Final yr, Wales Bonner started displaying her assortment throughout Paris Style Week.
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN
A trend design graduate from The Duperré College of Utilized Arts, Ludovic de Saint Sernin labored for a lot of French homes together with Balmain earlier than launching his signature label for spring 2018.
His unabashedly attractive, exacting garments are for each sexes, however are proven predominantly on males, together with underwear that laces up the entrance or again with rows of grommets. He additionally makes bandage tops, silky pajamas and brief skirts.
In 2020, he launched swimwear and entered the official calendar of Paris Style Week Males’s. In 2018, he gained the ANDAM Inventive Label prize.
He operates his personal e-store and in addition sells his skimpy designs through Ssense, Matchesfashion.com, H. Lorenzo and Departamento in Los Angeles, Joyce in Hong Kong and ENG in Shanghai.
Born in Seoul and raised in Austin, Tex., Rok Hwang studied trend at Central Saint Martins, happening to chop his tooth on the likes of Celine, Louis Vuitton and Chloé. He launched his London-based trend home Rokh in 2016, providing cool, of-the-moment ladies’s put on.
In a short while, he amassed greater than 100 prime wholesale shoppers drawn to his distinctive standpoint combining pragmatic dressing, romance and avenue edge.
Shirts with cut up sleeves, blazers that includes sharp layers, a mannish coat with a spliced physique held collectively by toggle fastenings, or a trench that includes an open again and buttoned panels that may be pulled aside have been a few of the model’s standout items.
Drawing on her British and West Indian background, Bianca Saunders shouldn’t be afraid to discover the extra weak facet of males. Her fall assortment was influenced by photographer Man Ray, and stretched material imagery by Erwin Wurm, and featured her second collaboration with Wrangler.
“My predominant goal for the model was to create that steadiness. You get the actually over-masculine man and effeminate man present in the identical world. Even the items may be seen as barely extra female. I believe that is how I create the vitality that brings one thing totally different, and extra issues to the boys’s put on dialog,” the Royal School of Artwork graduate informed WWD just lately.
Saunders can be a finalist for the LVMH Prize.
Listed below are the 4 nominees for the Pierre Bergé Prize, which focuses on younger French corporations and comes with 100,000 euros and mentoring from Sophie Delafontaine, inventive director at Longchamp:
CHARLES DE VILMORIN
Since launching his model in April 2020 within the midst of the coronavirus pandemic, Charles de Vilmorin has loved a meteoric rise, making his debut at Paris Couture Week in January, and subsequently being named artistic director of French trend home Rochas.
Recognized for his colourful work tinged with darkness, the French designer has made a splash with quilted bomber jackets and sculptural hourglass attire impressed by the work of artist Niki de Saint Phalle. In keeping with his genderless aesthetic, he often makes use of make-up and physique portray to remodel fashions into avatars for the fantastical creatures he attracts.
De Vilmorin can be a finalist for the LVMH Prize.
Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix launched their genderless label in 2019, attracting consideration on social media for posting a photograph of Glémarec’s eightysomething grandparents sporting biker jackets and matching leather-based pants — hers hand-painted with roses, his sprouting sharp spikes.
The model is called after Austrian painter Egon Scheile and its “tailor-made urban-punk DNA goals to decorate all physique shapes, all genders of all ages with out ever distorting them.”
Whereas tailoring has been the main focus of latest collections, its first collaboration — with sportswear label Sergio Tacchini — added a streetwear affect. The designers goal to create a life-style model, and encompass themselves with visible artist and music varieties.
Cofounders Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre have caught the business’s consideration with their novel method: one-size-fits-all adjustable garments that accommodate everybody from a U.S. dimension 2 to a dimension 22 — because of adjustable belts, straps and snaps.
The Brussels-based duo incorporate inclusivity and sustainability into all elements of their enterprise, from the design to the look e-book to the procuring expertise. Along with lowering waste by producing just one dimension, they use recycled materials and manufacture the items regionally, in a vocational coaching workshop for weak employees.
They joined Paris Style Week final yr, and in addition launched their first purse line incorporating a clasped-hands brand that symbolizes sorority.
Uniforme is the brainchild of Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats, each graduates of the Studio Berçot trend college who racked up expertise at a variety of Paris trend manufacturers (Balenciaga, Lanvin, Ami and Wooyoungmi amongst them) earlier than launching sustainably minded Uniforme in 2017.
They describe their method as “aware minimalism,” creating designs with army and utilitarian influences however with the benefit of streetwear. In 2020, they moved their studio from Paris to Nantes to work extra intently with their manufacturing companions and reconnect with nature.
“We imagine in a manner of consuming trend that entails by sparingly, however higher, holding onto favorites and passing them alongside,” they clarify.
And listed here are the three finalists for the Equipment Prize, which comes with 50,000 euros and mentoring from Giovanna Engelbert, Swarovski’s artistic director:
Sonia Ahmimou based the Aswad leather-based items workshop in Paris in 2015 after spending greater than a decade studying the métier at Louis Vuitton, Moynat and Hermès.
Her model identify derives from the literary Arabic phrase “hajar el aswad,” which means the black stone. In response to her model’s web site, its aesthetic is situated “on the crossroads of Moroccan and French craftsmanship and in our attachment to the preservation of conventional expertise.”
Her smooth baggage, some with zippered exterior compartments, and small leather-based items are bought on her web site and to pick out wholesale accounts, together with Merci in Paris, Zero + Maria Cornejo in Los Angeles, Duro Olowu in London and The Uncovered Home in Abu Dhabi.
Primarily based in Vienna and based in 2017, Printed By creates sculptural equipment impressed by structure and trendy artwork, together with gleaming, stone-shaped chrome baggage slung on leather-based ropes, plus offbeat brooches, harnesses and necklaces.
Founder and artistic director Christoph Tsetinis employs CAD-manufacturing packages from the automotive business and incorporates recycled automotive components in a bid to cut back waste and push artistic boundaries. He works along with his companion Ruby Wallen, who’s managing director of the corporate.
Consumers and shoppers are proven a variety of merchandise throughout the design part and solely probably the most sought-after merchandise are produced, slicing down on samples and overproduction.
Skulls, flowers, eyes, lips and the odd penis determine may be discovered on the baroque and barely surreal jewellery of Samuel François, a French stylist typically seen trailing behind Numero editor in chief Babeth Djian. He has been with the journal for greater than 20 years and is presently its trend director.
Whereas he skilled on the trend college Studio-Berçot, François is self-taught in jewelry-making and sculpts every wax mannequin, handing them to grasp craftsmen who deal with the bronze enameling.
His model dates from 2017 and references his many journeys to Naples, the place he attracts specific inspiration from the Fontanelle cemetery, and in addition specific his style for antiquity.